Education Pt.5: Lighting for Layers: Keep Egg Production Steady.

Mission Brief

When winter closes in, we don’t close the barn—we adjust the mission. Coturnix respond to day length, not brute lumens. Our job is to deliver a calm, predictable “sunrise-to-sunset” that tells their bodies, “keep laying,” while avoiding stress, overheating, or power waste. Treat lighting like nutrition or ventilation: measured, intentional, and boringly consistent. Decide on a program, write it down (timer settings, check points, backup plan), and fly it every day the same way.

The Golden Window: 14–16 Hours

Layers run best at about 15 hours total light per day. That’s sunlight plus your supplement. Going under 14 invites slowdowns; pushing over 16 tempts stress, feather picking, and long-term fertility dips. Pick a target (we like 15) and build your schedule around it. If daylight is 10 hours, you owe your birds 5 hours of supplemental light. Lock that into your timer and don’t “wing it”—even a few missed days can ripple through production, and can then take weeks to get back on track.

Field Rule for Brightness

Skip the stadium glow. Use the “read a page at bird height” rule. At the level where your quail actually live, you should be able to comfortably read small print—no squinting, no glare. That usually means low, even illumination. Too-bright zones cause restlessness; too-dim corners can turn into hideouts where timid birds spend the day instead of eating and laying. Aim for smooth, shadow-free coverage across feeders, drinkers, and resting areas.

Consistency Beats Intensity

A rock-solid timer or smart plug is your best tool. Program exact on/off times and lock them—every day, weekends included. If you adjust seasonally, do it once per month on a set date, not “whenever you remember.” Consider a battery-backed timer to ride out momentary power hiccups. If the flock shares a space with other chores, label the switch and outlet so no one accidentally kills your schedule while plugging in a shop vac.

AM/PM Split Programs

You can stack all your supplemental hours on one side of the day (we do evening), or split them between early morning and early night. Splits keep evenings calmer for you and can reduce the sudden “glare jump” birds feel when lights pop on. A common split: 2–3 hours before sunrise and 2–3 hours after sunset to reach your total. Splits also let you get chores done during the lighted window without pushing bedtime too late for neighbors or shared spaces.

Simple, Effective Hardware

No electrician required. LED string or rope lights are stellar—lightweight, low-heat, and easy to route along the front or back of pens for even coverage. LED shop lights or clamp lamps with efficient bulbs also work, especially over longer runs. Choose neutral-to-warm white bulbs (around 3000–4000K) for comfortable visibility. Put everything on one switched/timed circuit if possible so the whole room changes together. Keep a spare string/bulb on hand; a $10 backup can save a week of eggs.

Placement & Mounting

Mount lights so the beam crosses the pens rather than blasting directly into birds’ eyes. Aim for head height or slightly above, and test coverage by crouching to their level. If you see stripes, hot cones, or harsh shadows, add a simple diffuser (frosted cover, thin plastic) or bounce light off a pale wall or ceiling. Zip-tie slack cords, use outdoor-rated or protective cords where moisture is possible, and route everything outside of peck and chew zones. Clean lenses monthly—dust steals brightness.

Make Changes Gradually

If you’re short of your target, don’t jump from 10 to 16 hours overnight. Increase by 30–60 minutes per week until you reach mission length. The same goes for intensity—raise lights or add a second string, then give birds a week to settle. Photoperiod is a hormone steering wheel; yank it and the cabin gets queasy. Ramp it, and you keep the crew comfortable. When spring returns, you can step down your supplement in the same measured way.

Troubleshooting Checklist

If eggs taper:

1. Verify hours—check the timer, not your memory.

2. Check brightness at bird height—wipe lenses, confirm placement hasn’t drifted, look for new dark zones.

3. Watch behavior—restless birds or pecking often means glare or too much total light; lethargy and corner-hiding suggest dim pockets or cold/draft issues.

4. Confirm feed and water access within the lit footprint—if the feeder sits in shade, birds eat less.

5. Audit shocks—did someone change the schedule, leave lights off, or swap a bulb type? Small disruptions add up. Fix the environment first before blaming the birds.

   
   

Winter Example (Colorado)

Let sunrise be the natural wake-up. As days shorten, add evening light to hit ~15 hours total (e.g., sunset at 5:00 PM, lights off at 10:00 PM). If you prefer mornings, run lights 3 hours before sunrise and shut off at dawn, then add 2 hours after sunset. Keep the exact times consistent for the whole season. Post a small “flight card” by the door listing ON/OFF times, the target total, and a note: “Do not adjust without logging the change.”

Safety & Backup Plan

LEDs stay cool, but cords and dust still need respect. Use GFCI outlets, secure cords away from water, and avoid daisy-chaining bargain power strips. Keep a flashlight or headlamp handy so you’re not tempted to flip schedules during outages. If power blips, don’t “pay back” missed hours—return to your standard program the next day. Consistency wins, even after a hiccup.

Bottom-Line Flight Plan

Hold 14–16 hours of total light (we favor 15), keep illumination readable at quail height. Automate with a reliable timer, use LED strings or shop lights for even, low-glare coverage, mount and diffuse to eliminate hotspots. Ensure you make gradual changes, and troubleshoot with a clock, a clean lens, and a calm eye. Do that, and your layers will cruise through the short days—steady, efficient, and unfazed by winter.